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	<title>Dan&#039;s Hobbies &#187; Maple</title>
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	<description>The things i do for fun.</description>
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		<title>An end grain cutting board</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/08/28/an-end-grain-cutting-board/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/08/28/an-end-grain-cutting-board/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 00:20:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maple]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Purpleheart]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[router sled]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[video]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dans-hobbies.com/?p=1290</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This is my 4th cutting board, and I knocked it out in 5 days, 7 if you count the 2 days I let the wood rest. This was a quick project by my standards, but it&#8217;s possible to finish even faster. The most time consuming part of making an end grain cutting board is the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is my 4th cutting board, and I knocked it out in 5 days, 7 if you count the 2 days I let the wood rest. This was a quick project by my standards, but it&#8217;s possible to finish even faster. The most time consuming part of making an end grain cutting board is the final flattening. Since it&#8217;s end grain, you <strong>Cannot</strong> (I can&#8217;t stress this enough) run it through a typical planer. Thus it pays dividends to make sure the final glue up is as perfect as possible.</p>
<p>In my opinion, there are two ways to safely flatten the board.  The first is with a drum sander,  and the second is with a router sled. The drum sander yields a finished board right off the machine, but it can&#8217;t take off much material per pass. Additionally it&#8217;s not a tool found in most home shops, but if you have one it&#8217;s the best option. A router sled can remove more material per pass, but it yields a finish that requires additional refinement with abrasives. It also make a huge mess, unless you have some extreme dust collection in your shop.</p>
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<p>Links of interest:</p>
<ol>
<li>Marc Spagnuolo&#8217;s podcast about <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/" target="_blank">making an end grain cutting board</a>.</li>
<li>Marc&#8217;s podcast about <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-2/" target="_blank">finishing an end grain board</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11372" target="_blank">CBdesigner</a> is a <strong>free</strong> (love that word) program I use to design boards.</li>
</ol>
<p>Examples from the video (CBdesigner files):</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/example1.zip" target="_blank">Example 1</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/example2.zip" target="_blank">Example 2</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/example3.zip" target="_blank">Example 3</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/example4.zip" target="_blank">Example 4</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/example5.zip" target="_blank">Example 5</a></li>
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		<title>Hard maple chisel mallet</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/08/09/hard-maple-chisel-mallet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/08/09/hard-maple-chisel-mallet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Aug 2009 22:54:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chisel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hand tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[joints]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maple]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[router]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dans-hobbies.com/?p=410</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I ordered some bench chisels earlier this week, but chisels aren&#8217;t very useful without a mallet to pound on them with. Instead of purchasing a mallet with my chisels, I decided to save my money and make my own. While watching a cubs game I knocked out this design in SketchUp. It&#8217;s pretty simple, the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I ordered some bench chisels earlier this week, but chisels aren&#8217;t very useful without a mallet to pound on them with. Instead of purchasing a mallet with my chisels, I decided to save my money and make my own. While watching a cubs game I knocked out <a title="the SketchUp design file" href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/mallet.skp" target="_blank">this</a> design in SketchUp. It&#8217;s pretty simple, the head is a lamination of 4 1/2&#8243; thick boards, and the handle is 3/4&#8243; thick stock rounded over with the router. The only non-trivial  design element was the wedged tenon that secured the head to the handle. Thankfully fine woodworking came to my rescue with this <a title="Fine Woodworking article: Designing the Wedged Mortise and Tenon" href="http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2472" target="_blank">article</a> about wedged mortise &amp; tenon joints.</p>
<p>Assembly was pretty strait forward and only took a few hours  spread out over 3 days. The first evening I spent an hour or so rough milling the stock to size.  I spent about two hours in the shop on the second night.  I profiled the handle on the table saw using my dado blades, and then rounded over the edges at the router table. Making the head was a three step processes. The first step was to glue two 1/2&#8243; thick boards together to make one 1&#8243; thick board, that was then cut in half to form the two sides of the head.  Step two was to route a half thickness tenon into each of the head halves. The final step was to precisely glue together the two halves forming the head with a tapered mortise in the center of it. On the final day (yesterday) I finished up, by fitting the head to the handle, &amp; applying a couple coats of boiled linseed oil.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/chiselmallet2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-417" title="chisel&amp;mallet2" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/chiselmallet2-480x360.jpg" alt="chisel&amp;mallet2" width="480" height="360" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/wedgedmortisetenon.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-416" title="wedgedmortise&amp;tenon" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/wedgedmortisetenon-480x360.jpg" alt="wedgedmortise&amp;tenon" width="480" height="360" /></a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>My first end grain cutting board</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/08/01/my-first-end-grain-cutting-boared/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/08/01/my-first-end-grain-cutting-boared/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 04:51:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cutting board]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jatoba]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maple]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[This is my first end grain cutting board, It&#8217;s made from hard Maple &#38; Jatoba, and is 1-3/4&#8243; thick by 20&#8243; long and 12-1/2&#8243; wide.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is my first end grain cutting board, It&#8217;s made from hard Maple &amp; Jatoba, and is 1-3/4&#8243; thick by 20&#8243; long and 12-1/2&#8243; wide.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/hardmapleandjatobacb.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-388" title="hardmapleandjatobacb" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/hardmapleandjatobacb-480x360.jpg" alt="hardmapleandjatobacb" width="480" height="360" /></a></p>
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