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	<title>Dan&#039;s Hobbies &#187; Jigs</title>
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	<description>The things i do for fun.</description>
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		<title>Giant crosscut sled</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/13/giant-crosscut-sled/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/13/giant-crosscut-sled/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Jan 2010 20:18:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jigs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Table saw]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dans-hobbies.com/?p=772</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;m not really sure why, but I have been putting off making one of these for years. Making a cross cut sled is easy, but getting the fence square can be a real PITA (Oh yea that&#8217;s why). This sled is a smaller (42&#8243; x 42&#8243;),  simpler version of the Ultimate Crosscut Sled presented by [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not really sure why, but I have been putting off making one of these for years. Making a cross cut sled is easy, but getting the fence square can be a real PITA (Oh yea that&#8217;s why). This sled is a smaller (42&#8243; x 42&#8243;),  simpler version of the <a href="http://www.finewoodworking.com/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=30757" target="_blank">Ultimate Crosscut Sled</a> presented by John McCormack in the July 2008 issue of <a href="http://www.finewoodworking.com/" target="_blank">Fine Woodworking</a>. The actual dimensions of a sled are so dependent on your particular saw and project needs, that it&#8217;s pointless for me to draw a plan in sketchup for you to download. The following are some things to consider before making your sled.</p>
<p><span id="more-772"></span></p>
<ol>
<li>Keep the design simple &amp; use cheap/ scrap  materials. It&#8217;s a jig and therefore expendable. I&#8217;m not saying trash it after a month, but don&#8217;t expect it to last 10 years either. If you need to think twice about screwing down a stop block you spent too much on materials.</li>
<li>Make sure The sled is well supported. When you&#8217;re making a cut, you need to be focusing on keeping the piece back against the fence, and maintaining a smooth motion, not juggling the outboard end of the sled.</li>
<li>Use quarter sawn wood for the runner, as it will expand and contract less (I used White Oak).</li>
<li>Put a shallow dado in the base for the runner; this makes assembly a lot easier.</li>
<li>The fence needs to be perfectly strait. By perfectly strait, I mean within a few thousands.</li>
<li>Build the fence so it&#8217;s adjustable, i.e use bolts in over sized holes.  This feature really helps when it comes to keeping the fence strait. If the fence develops a bow, loosen the bolts and use clamps or some other method to push or pull the bow out.</li>
</ol>
<p>Like I said earlier, squaring the fence can be a real pain. While the<a href="http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/five_cut_method_swf.htm" target="_blank"> five cut method</a> takes the guess work out of the process, no tricks exist to make the process go faster. I think it took me about 90 minutes  to get my sled to within 0.002&#8243; per foot. Your probably thinking 90 minutes isn&#8217;t that bad. Remember, wood moves with the changes in weather. After a month or two of hanging on the shop wall your sled is going to need to be re-squared.</p>

<a href='http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/13/giant-crosscut-sled/0001-4/' title='0001'><img width="160" height="120" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/00011-160x120.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="90 minutes of cutting mdf makes a real mess of the shop floor." title="0001" /></a>
<a href='http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/13/giant-crosscut-sled/0005-3/' title='0005'><img width="160" height="120" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/0005-160x120.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="I made this saw horse in about an hour out of some scrap SYP. It&#039;s held together with lag bolts so it can be disassembled and hung on the wall, and it has leveling feet so I can level it to the saw top." title="0005" /></a>

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		<title>Old school track saw</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/03/old-school-track-saw/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/03/old-school-track-saw/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2010 08:18:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[circular saw]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jigs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plywood]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dans-hobbies.com/?p=767</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The easiest way to breakdown plywood and other sheet goods is with a &#8220;track saw&#8221;. No I&#8217;m not talking about the ones sold by Festool &#38; DeWALT that cost as much as a contractors saw. I&#8217;m talking about the ones that cost nothing because they are made from scrap. Pictured below is the one I&#8217;m [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The easiest way to breakdown plywood and other sheet goods is with a &#8220;track saw&#8221;. No I&#8217;m not talking about the ones sold by Festool &amp; DeWALT that cost as much as a contractors saw. I&#8217;m talking about the ones that cost nothing because they are made from scrap. Pictured below is the one I&#8217;m using to rough cut the panels of my <a href="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/12/17/router-table-pt-1/" target="_blank">router table</a> to size. It&#8217;s made from 1/4&#8243; Russian birch plywood, &amp; a SYP 2&#215;4.  The only step in making one that is remotely difficult is jointing the edge of the 2&#215;4.
<a href='http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/03/old-school-track-saw/0001-3/' title='0001'><img width="160" height="120" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/0001-160x120.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="A 4&#039;x8&#039; sheet of 2&quot; thick pink insulation makes an excellent sacrificial cutting surface." title="0001" /></a>
<a href='http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/03/old-school-track-saw/0002-3/' title='0002'><img width="160" height="120" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/0002-160x120.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="The plywood edge prevents tear out, &amp; makes lining up cuts a cinch." title="0002" /></a>
<a href='http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/03/old-school-track-saw/0003-3/' title='0003'><img width="160" height="120" src="http://www.dans-hobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/0003-160x120.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Keep the guide board thin, so it doesn&#039;t hamper your abillity to make deep cuts." title="0003" /></a>
</p>
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