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	<title>Comments on: A baltic birch plywood primer</title>
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	<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/09/a-baltic-birch-plywood-primer/</link>
	<description>The things i do for fun.</description>
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		<title>By: sally</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/09/a-baltic-birch-plywood-primer/comment-page-1/#comment-3324</link>
		<dc:creator>sally</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 04:52:01 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>please i need to know the price of birch plywood grade pc 152.5*152.5 glue is mr please i need to knoe the price thickness 3mm</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>please i need to know the price of birch plywood grade pc 152.5*152.5 glue is mr please i need to knoe the price thickness 3mm</p>
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		<title>By: Jim Daire</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/09/a-baltic-birch-plywood-primer/comment-page-1/#comment-3268</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim Daire</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2011 22:15:22 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Yesterday, I bought &quot;Baltic Birch Plywood&quot; (I couldn&#039;t find any place-of-manufacture markings such as Dan&#039;s described above, so I&#039;m using quote marks) at Rockler Woodworking (Maplewood Mall, north of St. Paul, MN). The sheets of BB-grade plywood were gorgeous and required only light sanding with 180 and 220 grit paper before applying 2 coats of clear satin urethane (I used no stain).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yesterday, I bought &#8220;Baltic Birch Plywood&#8221; (I couldn&#8217;t find any place-of-manufacture markings such as Dan&#8217;s described above, so I&#8217;m using quote marks) at Rockler Woodworking (Maplewood Mall, north of St. Paul, MN). The sheets of BB-grade plywood were gorgeous and required only light sanding with 180 and 220 grit paper before applying 2 coats of clear satin urethane (I used no stain).</p>
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		<title>By: Carla</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/09/a-baltic-birch-plywood-primer/comment-page-1/#comment-3237</link>
		<dc:creator>Carla</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Dec 2011 03:30:47 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>We&#039;ve had plywood on our floor for years and it still looks fine.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We&#8217;ve had plywood on our floor for years and it still looks fine.</p>
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		<title>By: Tony</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/09/a-baltic-birch-plywood-primer/comment-page-1/#comment-3021</link>
		<dc:creator>Tony</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 03 Oct 2011 10:25:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dans-hobbies.com/?p=779#comment-3021</guid>
		<description>Warping plywood can be a pain, but I have found it is true what Harold Payson said in his book &quot;instant boats,&quot; that plywood that has high humidity on one side will warp towards the other side.  He would just toss the plywood on the lawn on a sunny day with the warp upwards, allowing the sun to dry the top, and the ground to humidify the bottom.  Often, within that day, the sheet becomes flat again, or, if unwatched, warped in the opposite direction.  Try it out with some warped scrap if you like.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Warping plywood can be a pain, but I have found it is true what Harold Payson said in his book &#8220;instant boats,&#8221; that plywood that has high humidity on one side will warp towards the other side.  He would just toss the plywood on the lawn on a sunny day with the warp upwards, allowing the sun to dry the top, and the ground to humidify the bottom.  Often, within that day, the sheet becomes flat again, or, if unwatched, warped in the opposite direction.  Try it out with some warped scrap if you like.</p>
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		<title>By: Nate</title>
		<link>http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/09/a-baltic-birch-plywood-primer/comment-page-1/#comment-2553</link>
		<dc:creator>Nate</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jul 2011 19:56:54 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Do NOT use plywood for speaker cabinets. I have been building speakers since the &#039;60s and I can attest to the fact that MDF is the most highly recommended material to use. It is acoustically dead and will not &quot;ring&quot; or color the sound. I use 3/4&quot; MDF for the entire cabinet except the front baffle board where I use 1-1/8&quot; MDF or, for subwoofers, 1-3/4&quot; thick MDF typically laminating two 3/4&quot; slabs together. The extra thick front will stand up to the constant pounding by the low frequency drivers.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do NOT use plywood for speaker cabinets. I have been building speakers since the &#8217;60s and I can attest to the fact that MDF is the most highly recommended material to use. It is acoustically dead and will not &#8220;ring&#8221; or color the sound. I use 3/4&#8243; MDF for the entire cabinet except the front baffle board where I use 1-1/8&#8243; MDF or, for subwoofers, 1-3/4&#8243; thick MDF typically laminating two 3/4&#8243; slabs together. The extra thick front will stand up to the constant pounding by the low frequency drivers.</p>
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